For his Spring 2024 collection, LVMH Prize winner Satoshi Kuwata presented just 17 looks. Each featured intricate leather nets tied with the Japanese Square Knot, a stark contrast to the industry's typical expansive showcases, according to WWD. While many designers expand collections and prioritize conceptual narratives, Kuwata chose to reduce his offering, focusing instead on the literal, time-intensive craft of garment making, as The Impression reported. This deliberate pivot towards artisanal mastery and simplified presentation suggests a growing counter-movement in high fashion, where the tangible value of craft may increasingly outweigh the allure of sheer volume or abstract concepts.
The Intricacy of 'In the Net'
The Setchu Spring 2024 collection features three-piece suits and shirtdresses, enveloped in multicolored leather cords meticulously tied with the Japanese Square Knot, according to Vogue. Kuwata also crafted tops and dresses from metallic circles, held by jersey strips, explicitly avoiding round shapes he linked to mass production, WWD reported. This deliberate rejection of industrial design, prioritizing labor-intensive techniques and visible human effort, redefines luxury not by its scarcity, but by its tangible, time-consuming creation.
Kuwata's Literal Approach to Luxury
Satoshi Kuwata explicitly stated a "more literal approach to how garments should be made," focusing on manufacturing process and time invested over extensive conceptualization, according to The Impression. By avoiding "round shapes" associated with mass production, Kuwata issues a manifesto against fashion's industrialization. He dares consumers to value visible human effort over manufactured efficiency, prioritizing the tangible process of creation and the inherent value of time-intensive craft.
A Counterpoint to Industry Trends
Setchu's focus on reduced scale and meticulous craft stands in stark contrast to other luxury brands. Zegna, for instance, opted out of the Milan schedule for its Spring/Summer 2024 collection, choosing to unveil it in Los Angeles, according to Oui Speak Fashion. This divergence reveals a split in luxury strategy: some brands chase global visibility and new markets, while others, like Setchu, double down on exclusivity and time-intensive craft within traditional frameworks. Zegna seeks new audience engagement, but Setchu's distinctiveness lies in its internal focus on the making of fashion, not just its presentation.
The Future of Craft in High Fashion
Satoshi Kuwata's decision to present just 17 meticulously crafted looks, each demanding significant time and skill, suggests a fundamental shift in luxury's definition. True luxury appears to be moving from brand ubiquity and abstract narratives toward tangible, time-intensive artistry that actively resists mass production. This focus on artisanal integrity could redefine luxury market expectations.
